This wiring arrangement allows for lowering the lights with a dimmer and controlling the fan with the builtin pull chain. The source is at the ceiling outlet box and 3-wire cable runs from there to the switch box. The neutral from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan kit and the cable, running it through to the switch box.
Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The hot source is connected directly to the bottom terminal on the switch. Two-wire cable runs from there to the ceiling fan.
Here a gfci receptacle is added at the end of a row of duplex receptacles for single-location protection. The first outlet is connected to the source and 2-wire cable runs from box to box. All wires are spliced with a pigtail at the devices to pass current from one to the next. The load terminals on the gfci are not used and it does not protect the other receptacles in the circuit.
Here the source is at the fan/light and a switch loop runs to the wall switch. The source is wired directly to the fan and spliced through to the switch. With this arrangement the light is controlled with the switch and the fan is hardwired for pull-chain control.
In this wiring, the source is at the switch and 3-wire cable runs from there to the fan/light. The switch controls the light and the source is spliced through to the fan. With this arrangement, the fan is controlled by a pull-chain on the motor housing and the light is controlled with the switch. The neutral and ground wires are also spliced through to the fan/light.
Here two receptacles in one box are wired using the device terminals. With this arrangement, if receptacle #1 fails, receptacle #2 may also fail if failure is due to physical damage. However, if the copper tab conductors between the terminals remain intact, even if #1 stops functioning, receptacle #2 will probably still work.
The white wire is wrapped with black tape to identify it as hot. The black wire connects the fan to the speed controller. The red wire connects the light to the dimmer.
This diagram shows two switches in the same box with two separate 120 volt sources. Three-wire cable is supplying the source for both switches with the black and red wires going to the bottom switch terminals. The black wire from each light is connected to the top terminal of their respective switch. The white and ground wires are spliced to run to each light fixture.
This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. Three-wire cable runs from there to the controllers. The neutral wire from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan/light. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end.
The hot wire to the fan in a fan/light kit will usually be black and the light wire will be blue. The white wire is usually the neutral which is always connected directly to the source neutral, either at the source or through a splice in the switch box. The white wire may also be used to carry current when necessary.
Run the cable through the clamp and tighten it down. Splice the cable wires to the fan wires using a pigtail splice and a wire nut. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.
In this arrangement with 2 switches in one box, the bottom terminals are connected to pigtails spliced to the source. The top switch terminals connect to the black wires running to the light fixtures. The source neutral and ground wires are spliced to run to each light box.
Here GFCI’s are wired to a double-pole circuit breaker with the source split to provide 120 volts to two sets of receptacles. The neutral from the source is shared by both sets. Single-location protection is provided by each receptacle.