In this diagram, a light switch and receptacle are wired in the same box. Both devices are spliced to the same hot source and the neutral to the neutral on the receptacle, and through to the light fixture located in a separate box.
Run the cable through the clamp and tighten it down. Splice the cable wires to the fan wires using a pigtail splice and a wire nut. Connect the ground to the grounding terminal in the connection box and the ground wire from the fan, if there is one.
The black wire is splice to the output on the speed controller and to the black, fan wire at the other end. The red wire is spliced to the output on the dimmer and to the blue, light wire at the other end. The neutral from the source is spliced in the switch box with the white wire, and to the neutral wire on the ceiling fixture at the other end.
Here two receptacles in one box are wired using the device terminals. With this arrangement, if receptacle #1 fails, receptacle #2 may also fail if failure is due to physical damage. However, if the copper tab conductors between the terminals remain intact, even if #1 stops functioning, receptacle #2 will probably still work.
Here GFCI’s are wired to a double-pole circuit breaker with the source split to provide 120 volts to two sets of receptacles. The neutral from the source is shared by both sets. Single-location protection is provided by each receptacle.
Use this wiring when the power source originates at the switch and you want to control both the fan and light from there. The hot source is connected directly to the bottom terminal on the switch. Two-wire cable runs from there to the ceiling fan.
In this arrangement with 2 switches in one box, the bottom terminals are connected to pigtails spliced to the source. The top switch terminals connect to the black wires running to the light fixtures. The source neutral and ground wires are spliced to run to each light box.
Here the exhaust fan is controlled by a timer instead of a switch. There should be two hot wires and a ground coming out of the timer casing, splice one of these to the hot source. Spice the second to the black, cable wire running to the fan. Splice the source neutral to the white cable wire and the ground to the ground wires. At the fan splice the wires, matching the colors of each.
This diagram illustrates the wiring for a circuit with gfci receptacles followed by an unprotected light and switch. The light switch is connected directly to the source and the load terminals on the gfci are not used.
To wire an exhaust fan to a wall switch, use this diagram. These fans usually come with a small electrical connection box welded to the side of the housing. There will be a cover on the connection box that fastens with a small screw. Open it, pop the plug out of one of the wire holes and thread a wire clamp into it.
In this wiring, a switch and receptacle are in the same box and the switch controls the power to the outlet. The hot wire connects to the bottom terminal on the switch and the top output goes to the receptacle hot terminal. The neutral wire from the source connects directly to the receptacle neutral.
This diagram is similar to the one above, but with the electrical source originating at the fixture. Three-wire cable runs from there to the controllers. The neutral wire from the source is spliced directly to the white wire on the fan/light. The hot source wire is spliced to the white on the 3-wire cable and then spliced to the input wires on both controllers at the other end.
This diagram shows the wiring for multiple receptacles in an arrangement that connects each individually to the source. All wires are spliced to a pigtail which is connected to each device. This wiring allows for voltage at each device independent of the other outlets in the circuit.